The latest run of couture shows in Paris signaled a return to relative normal, as the balance between digital and in-person events tipped in favor of the latter, and more international guests returned to the city this week to soak up the atmosphere.
Balenciaga stole the show when the brand — led by creative director Demna Gvasalia — presented its first haute couture collection 53 years after the house’s founding designer, Cristóbal Balenciaga, closed his couture business in 1968.
Ella Emhoff made her Paris Fashion Week debut at Balenciaga. Credit: Courtesy Balenciaga
The 40-year-old Georgian designer, who has been designing ready-to-wear clothing for Balenciaga for six years, unveiled an expansive collection of 63 looks. Rarely do jeans and T-shirts make an appearance on couture runways, but the show presented a distinctly modern take on high fashion, mixing casual garments with formal gowns and Demna’s (he prefers to go by his first name only) signature supersize outerwear.
Every Chanel couture show features a bride. Notable brides include Lily Rose Depp, Linda Evangelista, Devon Aoki and Kendall Jenner. This year, Margaret Qualley played the part. Credit: Mikael Jansson
Other highlights from the four-day event included Margaret Qualley’s (daughter of Andie MacDowell) bridal cameo at Chanel, Victor & Rolf’s playful take on royal fashion and Iris Van Herpen’s skydiving models.
Skydiving and couture both “relinquish the thrill of leaving aside everything that holds one to the ground,” said Iris Van Herpen in the collection show notes. Credit: Alexandre Aimard
American label Pyer Moss was scheduled to close out the shows on Thursday with a historical first. The brand’s founder and creative head, Kerby Jean Raymond, is the first Black American designer to be invited to show on the Paris haute couture official schedule.
Sadly, the weather in Irvington, New York, where the show was set to take place, had other plans. Just as guests began to arrive at the venue, the former residence of Black entrepreneur Madam C.J. Walker, a storm blew in forcing plans to be rescheduled for Saturday.
Click through the gallery above for all the highlights and watch the livestreamed Pyer Moss show below on Saturday at 4 pm ET.